La Dolce Vita

Mangia, Mangia! (Eat, Eat!) In Siena, I had a wonderful meal at Osteria Da Gano. Serving Tuscan dishes in a casual setting with friendly service. At the hotel I stayed at in the Chianti Region, they served outstanding meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner at their two food outlets – Pavilion and La Torre. La Torre is a Michelin-starred restaurant where both food and service was top notch. First stop in Florence was a cappuccino break at Gucci Giardino 25. Osteria Filetto d’Oro served traditional Tuscan dishes with attentive service. I had to return to Trattoria Sostanza for their famous…

Giardino

Instead of being huddled with the crowds, I decided to go visit gardens to get some fresh Tuscan sun and air. First stop is Giardino di Boboli, originally designed for the Medici and located behind Pitti Palace. The Giardino Bardini is an Italian Renaissance Garden located in the hilly part of Oltarno. Opened only recently to the public, it is one of Florence‘s well kept secrets.

Firenze

Three time lucky, as they say – and all my three visits to Florence have been a charm. I will never tire of this city. With most of the main sights lying within walking distance of one another, Firenze, is the cradle of the Renaissance and one of Europe’s great art cities. There is so much exquisite art and architecture within its ancient walls that it is easy to become overwhelmed. The plan is to visit sites I have not seen before. On exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi is Donatello, the Renaissance. A historic exhibition which sets out to reconstruct the…

Chianti Region

Spread between Florence and Siena in the heart of Tuscany, the Chianti wine region is the romanticized Italy of daydreams. Traversing the gentle hillsides, a twisting, picturesque route known as the Chiantigiana, landscapes are filled with terra-cotta-roofed towns, vineyards, olive groves and peppered with case coloniche (farmhouse). I based myself in Barberino Tavarnelle, located in a great position between the Val d’Elsa and Val di Pesa in the heart of Chianti, and only 25 kms from Florence. This is a part of Tuscany that is not too crowded and filled with charming, hidden corners. 

Siena

Siena is a city where the architecture soars. Effectively a giant, open-air museum celebrating the Gothic, Siena has religious and secular monuments that have retained both their medieval forms and their extraordinary art collections. Often referred to as Florence’s longtime rival, this city of rose-coloured brick seems to have come out on top in terms of a more unified preservation and grace. With steep, twisting stone alleys and churches, palaces, and crenellated public buildings draped across its gentle hillsides, Siena is for many admirers one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. It’s a feast for the senses and an…

Antipasto, Primo, Secondo

Dining in Italy can be a drawn out affair, especially during dinners. Staring with the Antipasto (appetizer), followed by Primo (first course), Secondo (main course), and a Dolce (dessert). Be it in a Ristorante, a Trattoria, an Osteria, a Tavola Calda or a Pizza Rustica (selling pizza by the slice), there are tons of eating choices. Rome is famous for its thin-crust pizzas and Emma is both an excellent pizzeria and restaurant that serves classic dishes like carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe.   When I was in Rome three years ago, a friend from back home recommended Roscioli Salumeria…

Venice

Ciao Venice! I can’t believe that my last time to this enchanting city was in 2003 – fifteen years ago! I must admit that part of my hesitation to return to Venice is the several news accounts of daunting crowds of tourists outnumbering locals by two to one. I keep reminding myself that one is never more than a bridge or alley away to a more quiet campi (square) or neighbourhood. Venice continues to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world.                                …

Biennale: Vatican Chapels

Undoubtedly, the Holy See Pavillion stole the show at the 16th Venice Architecture Biennale. The Vatican Chapels, located in the woodland of San Giorgio Maggiore Island, felt more intimate away from the main Giardini and Arsenale grounds. The project consists on ten pavilions by ten different practices from around the globe. The roster of names rangers from heavyweights such as Norman Foster and Eduardo Souto de Moura to Smiljan Radic.                                                            …

La Biennale Di Venezia

So this is the main event for this trip to Italy – to visit the Biennale Archittettura 2018. One of the preeminent cultural events in the world, since its inception in 1895, the Venice Biennale has been of the most important and influential events in international contemporary art. Alternating each year between Art and Architecture, the 16th Venice Biennale of Architecture provides an opportunity for architects and designers to showcase new projects.There are 63 national pavilions this year curated by Grafton Architects with the theme of Free Space.                          …