Adios, Colombia

Colombia bills itself el país de la belleza – the country of beauty. The South American nation features astounding biodiversity and cultural heritage, and topography ranging from the majestic Andes and the Amazon rainforest to the Caribbean coast. My second and more extensive visit to this country has only confirmed the impression left by my first: that Colombia rewards those willing to look past is reputation, revealing a place of extraordinary warmth, resilience, and richness at every turn.

Cartagena’s Boca Grande or “Little Miami”

Some of the cafes that serves good Colombian coffee:

Cafe La Viña in Guatape

Medellin’s Cafe Dragon

Cafe La Manchuria, also in Poblado (Medellin)

Cafe Jesus Martin in Salento

Cafe Rialto in Cartagena

Cafe San Alberto in Bogota

And now for the food and accommodations during my visit:

Two memorable meals in Medellin were at La Matriarca and at El Cielo – both located in El Poblado neighborhood and serving local Colombian fare.

La Matriarca

El Cielo

I arrived early evening in Cartagena and had dinner at Pizzeria della Chiesa at the Four Seasons Hotel.

Excellent dinner at Restaurante Cande – serving Caribbean / Cartagena food. Located in the Old Town, they also had live music when I was there.

Second excellent dinner was in the Getsemani neighbourhood at Restaurante Serpie. Inventive traditional Cartagena dishes and warm service.

First dinner in Bogota was at Tierra, serving contemporary Colombian, with Peruvian influence.

Best meal on this trip was at El Chato, also located in Zona G. No wonder it’s been awarded the Best Restaurant in Latin America by “50 Best”. [Also where I tried for the first time — ants – which is a local delicacy. It was served as a dessert with Tonka Beans and Chocolate.]

I stayed at El Cielo Hotel in Medellín. Nestled in the lively El Poblado neighborhood and owned by chef Juan Manuel Barrientos, the hotel offers 28 suites styled with modern furnishings. Its eponymous in-house restaurant at the lobby mirrors its sister locations in D.C., Miami, and Bogotá.


In the coffee region near Pereira, halfway between the Cocora Valley and the plantations around Chinchiná, I stayed at Hotel Sazagua. This 10-suite hacienda is tucked into lush gardens, teeming with tropical plants and exotic birds. Service is friendly and personable – and the restaurant, where I had daily breakfasts and two dinners, serves excellent dishes. Only feedback is that the bathroom needs updating.

Dining Area

Set in the artsy Getsemaní neighborhood, the Four Seasons Cartagena unfolds across a collection of restored landmarks, wrapped in tropical gardens and sweeping sea views. The hotel only recently opened in April. As expected, well thought out rooms and exceptional service – “where everyone knows your name”!

For this second visit to Bogotá, I stayed at the Four Seasons Casa Medina. Restored from a 1940s Spanish colonial residence, the hotel offers no two guest rooms alike, and sits in Zona G, the city’s gourmet district.

And muchas gracias to travel consultants A2A, who arranged the logistics of this trip, including the guides and the drivers. Everything was made to look and feel so seamless and effortless — much like my previous travels with them to Peru, Chile, Tanzania, and South Africa.

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